Adapted from group member Cheng Yi Lin’s travelogue
The moment I arrived in Uluwatu, I truly understood what ‘the temper of the Indian Ocean’ means.
For this Bali free-and-easy trip, we chose to drive southward by private car, passing through bustling Seminyak and narrow country roads, swaying our way to the southern tip of the peninsula. The driver slowed down on the final stretch, pointing out the window: ‘Uluwatu is just ahead.’ Before I could react, a two-meter-high reef wave crashed into view - not the gentle lapping kind, but a solid punch against the limestone, exploding into a spray of water. That raw, rugged power felt like the ocean asserting its sovereignty.
Several black dots were skillfully cutting through the wave walls on the sea surface - real pro-level surfers. They crouched, accelerated, and dove into the wave tubes, their movements fluid and seamless. I stood at the cliff edge watching for a while, feeling a strange awe - not fear, but a clear understanding that this place doesn’t belong to you, you’re just an observer.
The Seven-Floor Challenge
The hotel we stayed in was quite audacious, built directly on the cliff. Calling it ‘staying’ feels more like a physical fitness test.
The car stopped at the topmost roadside, and I looked down with my luggage - stone steps winding downward, roughly seven stories high. I knew beforehand to contact the hotel, but we arrived fifteen minutes early, so we had to carry our luggage partway ourselves. Just as I was panting and dragging my suitcase downstairs, two staff members came running up from below, smiling as they took the heavy luggage and descended another six floors. Even following them empty-handed made my legs weak, yet they carried nearly 20kg boxes with steps as steady as walking on flat ground.
After check-in, I tipped them 20,000 IDR (about USD$1.30), sincerely feeling it was the most worthwhile money spent on the entire trip. Honestly, this place isn’t suitable for elderly or children guests - just those stairs could make them cancel the trip immediately. But if you’re young or an adventurous soul with some stamina left, this place will make you smile in your dreams.
The Golden Illusion
When I walked into the room, I stood frozen at the doorway for about ten seconds.
The floor-to-ceiling windows faced the Indian Ocean without any obstructions, flooding the entire room with the blue of the sea. There was no balcony, no railing to interrupt the view—it felt like sitting right on the edge of the ocean. I had booked the room a month and a half in advance, and only the smallest room type was left; the ones with terraces were long gone. But honestly, it was enough. This window alone was worth every penny.
In the evening, just before sunset, I was lying on the bed daydreaming when I suddenly noticed the room changing colors. The setting sun cast a slanting beam from the horizon, first a warm yellow streak, then slowly turning orange-red, until the entire room seemed drenched in gold—the walls, the bedsheets, even the air felt like it was sprinkled with gold dust. The scene was so surreal, like a dreamy moment in a movie that would be captured in slow motion.
I practically sprang out of bed, slipped on my sandals, and dashed toward the beach.
Healing Moments in the Intertidal Zone
The rocky platform emerged after the tide receded, and the tidal pools reflected the sunset like shattered mirrors. I carefully walked across the slippery rocks, the seawater warm, the breeze carrying the scent of salt and seaweed. In the distance, a few surfers were packing up their boards, walking barefoot across the sand, their silhouettes stretched long by the setting sun.
I sat on the rocks watching the sunset for nearly an hour. No photos, no scrolling on my phone—just watching the sun slowly sink into the sea, its color shifting from golden yellow to blood orange, until only a purple afterglow lingered on the horizon. It was pure therapy.
Uluwatu Dining and Entertainment Recommendations
Uluwatu is one of the most popular areas in southern Bali, renowned for its stunning cliff views, charming beaches, and excellent surfing spots. Filled with a romantic tropical vacation atmosphere, it's the perfect choice for enjoying sunset views and relaxing moments. If you're also considering staying in Uluwatu, you can refer to the following carefully curated dining and entertainment guide to make your trip even more enriching and fun: Uluwatu Guide: Uluwatu Attractions and Dining Recommendations
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The Lullaby of Waves in a Bamboo House
It wasn’t until I returned to the room at night that I truly realized—the entire house was made of bamboo.
The ceiling is woven from bamboo, the walls pieced together with bamboo strips, and the whole house emits a faint creak with every gust of wind. The soundproofing isn’t great, but the roar of Uluwatu’s waves is so loud that it doesn’t matter—it’s not background noise, it’s the main event. The deep, low-frequency rumble of waves crashing against the rocks, mixed with the delicate sound of spray, creates a rhythm that feels ancient and repetitive.
The hotel thoughtfully placed earplugs by the bedside, accompanied by a small card that read: ‘Ocean sound can be the perfect lullaby.’ I initially thought this was a bit pretentious, but that night, I didn’t even glance at my phone. I lay down and soon drifted into sleep. It was a strange sensation—not so much falling asleep as being ‘carried away’ by the sound of the waves. It felt like sound therapy: my body relaxed, my consciousness slowly dissolved, and then I was gone.
I slept dreamlessly—or rather, my entire night was filled with dreams of the sea.
Monkey Steals Fries and the Absurd Theater of Nature
Breakfast was decent, with fresh tropical fruits and freshly made Indonesian fried noodles, but lunch’s pizza was mediocre—soft crust, average toppings. However, none of that mattered because the real highlight of lunchtime was the monkeys.
Uluwatu’s monkeys are notorious, something I knew before arriving, but seeing it firsthand was absurdly hilarious. We ordered a plate of fries and left it on the table while we went to grab drinks. When we returned, a female monkey was sitting comfortably in my chair, clutching fries in both hands and stuffing three more into her mouth. She didn’t even flinch as I approached, just kept chewing while staring straight at me, as if to say, ‘What?’
The real spectacle was by the sea. I witnessed a monkey swimming—yes, swimming. It paddled with a textbook doggy paddle, head held high, looking utterly at ease. But upon closer inspection, three or four monkeys on the shore were barking, seemingly forbidding it from coming ashore. The poor swimmer was forced to paddle back and forth near the shore, chased away every time it tried to land. Eventually, it swam further out, disappearing into the waves.
I don’t know if it ever made it back to shore. This was perhaps Uluwatu’s most absurd yet authentic theater of nature.
Surf Camp: A Pro’s Playground
Uluwatu is mostly frequented by white travelers, with few group tourists, creating a chill, secluded community vibe. Our accommodation was a surf camp, with a surf spot right downstairs. Lessons started promptly at 6:30 AM and 9:30 AM daily, with one-on-one sessions lasting two hours for around IDR 410,000 (about USD$27). Given the quality of the waves, the price was quite reasonable.
But I must say this seriously: beginners really shouldn’t come here.
The waves here aren’t the kind you can casually play in while standing. They’re powerful, rhythmic, and temperamental. I watched a lesson from the shore - the instructor led the students out paddling, and just as they passed the breaking waves, a nearly two-meter wave crashed down, sending the student tumbling underwater several times, with their board flying three meters away. The instructor calmly retrieved both person and board, but that student spent the next half-hour treading water and catching their breath, completely exhausted from chasing waves.
I recommend being able to catch green waves (unbroken wave faces) on your own before coming here, otherwise the ocean will truly ‘teach you a lesson.’ This sea isn’t a practice ground - it’s an exam hall.
Epilogue
On the morning I left Uluwatu, I stood at the cliff edge watching the waves one last time. Just as fierce as when I arrived, two-meter reef waves still crashed spectacularly. But now I’d grown accustomed to the sound, even finding it somewhat comforting.
I took one last look at the bamboo room, its floor-to-ceiling windows reflecting the morning light, the sea still that same deep blue. I remembered the words on that little card - the sound of the sea truly is the best lullaby. More than just aiding sleep, it reminds you that in this vast world, you can temporarily entrust yourself to the ocean, to a little room on a cliff, to seven flights of stairs and a troop of swimming monkeys.
Uluwatu isn’t for everyone. But if you happen to be someone who doesn’t mind inconvenience, isn’t afraid of waves, and doesn’t mind monkeys stealing your fries, this will be the most worthwhile dream you’ve ever had.
Accommodation details:
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